Zen-like tranquility in Kelly's Courtyard.( Source: CRI )

It seems like Zheng has a mission to help people appreciate what he calls "the real charm of Beijing," as can only be shared by a Beijing native." He hopes the hostel itself can help people feel that connection with history.

Upon entering the courtyard, the sound of trickling water accentuates a zen-like tranquility. Sunlight from the sloping glass ceiling washes over the wood and slate floor. Plants and flowing draperies designed by Kelly herself add an organic flow to the space. The guest rooms run the perimeter of the courtyard, giving it a sense of community.

The rooms themselves are more European than Chinese, tastefully decorated with antiques. Each room has its own modern bathroom.

The open and spacious roof area is the ideal place to slowly sip a cup of tea and watch the locals amble past below. Children who spot travelers overcome their shyness to call out "Hello!" Although Kelly's is near a major shopping area, foreigners in this neighborhood are in short supply.