Playing mahjong only just loses out to chatting in teahouses as locals’ favorite pastime.

Mahjong is a quintessential aspect of Chinese culture, and Chengdu’s mahjong culture enjoys special renown. For visitors to the city, playing mahjong seems just as important for locals as eating and sleeping. Mahjong boards are everywhere – not only in teahouses and parks, but also on trains and buses. On one train linking Chengdu and Chongqing that entered service in April this year, an entire carriage has been set aside for passengers to play the game.

On the rare occasion that Chengdu leisure-seekers aren’t in the teahouses or playing Mahjong, they’re probably out enjoying the beautiful natural scenery that surrounds their city. On weekends and holidays, residents also head for the countryside to enjoy some mountain hiking or river cruising.

Out in the countryside, the produce is even fresher than in the city. After a morning spent along a hiking trail, a quick lunch in a roadside restaurant can turn into a three-hour banquet at the drop of a hat.

Every Chengdu resident is a gourmand. They live for delicious food. Sichuan cuisine is actually counted among the four major Chinese culinary traditions. Restaurants in Chengdu, regardless of their size or location, must have at least one signature dish or a peculiar brand of culinary innovation. If they don’t they won’t survive amidst the fierce competition.

The slow pace of life in Chengdu has many fans. Residents welcome tourists who come to visit; they know their city is a treasure, and don’t mind sharing the bounty. Chengdu has been voted as the “Happiest City” in China for several years running. The title is fully deserved.

Old Alleys and Towns

Another good reason to visit Chengdu is to wander through the old town’s warren of alleyways. For the aspiring tourist, it’s best to visit sooner, rather than later: with the heady speed of urban construction, many old streets and alleys are gradually vanishing. Some, including Wenmiao Street and Daosangshu Street, have been set aside for preservation.

Arguably the most famous old walkway in Chengdu is Kuanzhai Alley; that’s also here to stay. Today the alley is blocked to traffic; walkers have free rein.

Kuanzhai Alley is made up of three segments – the Kuan, Zhai and Jing alleys, which were connected as part of one, long alleyway in the Qing Dynasty. As one of the symbols of Chengdu, Kuanzhai has resisted the changes that have transformed other parts of the urban landscape. Parts of the alley have been renovated and restored, but its authenticity has been maintained to this day.

Jinli Street is another well-known old street, though it differs vastly from Kuanzhai Alley. Adjacent to the Wuhou Shrine, Jinli is a busy commercial street with a long history. Visitors who aren’t there to barter can find plenty to do in the street’s bars, cafes, handicraft stores and local guesthouses.

There are many well-preserved old towns in the suburbs of Chengdu. They are spots for rest and relaxation, and seem a world away from the hustle and bustle of downtown. Perhaps the most scenic among them is Huanglongxi Town, which was voted the most beautiful old town in Sichuan in 2012.

The Huanglongxi Town is bifurcated by the fast-running Fuhe River. Several iron suspension bridges straddle the river, linking the two halves of the small town together. On one riverbank stands an ancient banyan tree with twisted roots. It is said the tree has a history of nearly 1,000 years. Today, many of the town’s families have lived there for generations – although perhaps not quite as long as their banyan tree neighbor. Locals earn a living in tourism: they run street-front stores selling snacks and souvenirs, and reside in backyard rooms.

Huanglongxi has many traditions that it calls its own, but perhaps the most peculiar of all is the Fire Dragon Dance. During the first half of the first month of the lunar calendar, 20 strapping young men strip from the waist up in the town center to perform the traditional dance routine, which employs fireworks to spectacular effect. The dance has to be seen to be believed.

Historical Figures and Today’s New Stars

More than 2,000 years of history has left an indelible mark on the cultural heritage of Chengdu, which was capital of Shu (221-263) during the Three Kingdoms Period. According to local government statistics there are a total of 127 sites of cultural significance under national protection in the city.

Chengdu’s history is still alive; Chengdu residents can recall the stories of the historic figures that once called the city home.

Zhuge Liang (181-234) is undoubtedly the foremost representative of the culture of the Three Kingdoms Period (220-280). He is recognized as a great strategist, politician and inventor. He has also become a national symbol of Chinese wisdom. An idiom still in popular use today describes one who is very smart as being “capable enough to compete with Zhuge Liang.” The Wuhou Shrine in Chengdu is a memorial hall for Zhuge Liang. As one of the three most influential museums specializing in the culture of the Three Kingdoms Period, it attracts millions of tourists every year.