Philippe Leveille is known for combining French cooking techniques with traditional Italian fare.

The mains started to arrive next with a pasta dish first－ravioli with confit duck leg stuffing, baby spinach, and Sichuan pepper sauce. Each fresh pasta pocket was topped with a slice of Tasmanian black truffle. The fresh pasta was cooked well and not too soft as fresh pasta can sometimes be. The line-caught sea bream, venere rice, and vegetables brunoise with tomato-basil cream was one of my favorite dishes. The fish skin was fried to crispy perfection and the white flesh of the fish cooked until just done. The deep purple rice and vegetables added additional textures including a bit of chewiness and the soft crunch of fresh vegetables. The next dish was a red meat dish that I must admit to craving on the day we dined, so it tasted especially good to me. The wagyu beef, potato puree, red-wine sauce and seasonal vegetables were nothing like the traditional meat and potatoes served from my childhood. Tender, cooked to medium-rare, and full of beef flavor, this dish took meat and potatoes to an entirely new level.

Dessert turned out to be a signature dish that originates from a recipe Leveille's mother-in-law handed down to him. Gelato Miramonti is made with only a few ingredients－milk, cream, eggs, vanilla, sugar, lemon and lemon zest－and is served tableside with cooked strawberries in syrup. A mountain of gelato arrived next to our table and was immediately scooped into martini glasses, each served with a spoonful of the cooked strawberries on top. It was heavenly. I thought it couldn't get any better until we were told that the winter version of the dessert would be served with a rich warm 75-percent chocolate sauce. A cool weather visit will need to be arranged as soon as the mercury drops!

IF YOU GO

L'altro, 10/F, The L Place, 139 Queen's Road Central, Hong Kong. 852-2555-9100.

www.laltro.hk.

Cost per head: HK$880 ($114) (five courses) and HK$1,180 (seven courses) plus 10-percent service charge.

Recommended: Line-caught Sea Bream, Wagyu Beef and Potato Puree, Gelato Miramonti.