The history of Suzhou Song Brocade can be traced back to the Spring and Autumn Period (770-476 BC). At that time, a large amount of brocade was already used by aristocrats from the Kingdom of Wu, which was located to the south of the Yangtze River.
Having been developed for dynasties, brocade techniques were comprehensively enhanced during the Northern Song Dynasty (960-1127). In the Southern Song Dynasty (1127-1279), workshops were set up in Suzhou, which had become the center for silk production in China. Out of the synchronous Suzhou brocade, a new variety was developed, which boasted a delicate texture and unique techniques.
Not only was Song Brocade used for making clothes like robes and gowns, but it was also substantially used in mounting scrolled paintings and calligraphic works. Thus brocade was preserved together with some ancient famous paintings, and has been passed down up to now.
Song Brocade produced in Suzhou is exquisite in craftsmanship and elegant in style. Of traditional styles and features since the Song Dynasty, it is quite different from the dazzling gold-wefted brocade and figured satins which were popular in the Yuan (1271-1368) and Ming (1368-1644) dynasties.
The production of traditional Song Brocade entails numerous procedures. Usually there are over twenty procedures involved in producing it, from filature and dyeing to its completion. Not only are patterns woven in a structure of warps interspersed with wefts, but multicolored shuttles are cast in different combinations as well, in order to change the colors of the pattern. Such unique techniques give birth to brocade with multilayered and multicolored threads.
In terms of the artistic style, Song Brocade embraces variable geometric figures as its overall framework. Inside the framework, there are patterns involving flowers, ornamental scepters and clouds (the latter two indicate good fortune). Moreover, different colors that jointly characterize a piece of brocade coexist in harmony and contrast. In this way, brocade is beautiful yet not vulgar, simple yet elegant.
Due to its colored wefts, Song Brocade belongs to weft brocade (Shu Brocade is warp brocade). The ornamental brocading is produced by a supplementary, non-structural weft in addition to the standard weft that holds the warp threads together. The purpose of this is to give the appearance that the weave actually was embroidered on. Song Brocade is characterized by complex patterns, simple combinations of colors, and solid yet soft texture. It is also flat, stiff and smooth. It is woven by using multicolored wefts alternately in separate parts, which makes its surface more colorful and enlarges the cycle for the colors of the patterns. Patterns of Song Brocade have fixed styles. Usually with varied colors combined in an elegant and harmonious manner, there are flower branches inside geometric frames, an octagon with geometric lines surrounding the central flowers, fish playing in algae, and peonies.
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