McGregor said China's makeover in the past 30 years has transformed its cities into simulacrums of Western conurbations, with all their conveniences, and more.

"I returned to China in the 1990s as a journalist, interested in representing the world of business, so I saw a different aspect. Everyone wanted to show me the economic zones and stuff. I remember the vice-mayor of Shanghai outlining his plans for Pudong and I thought they might do something in 30 years or so. It took a third of the time and I wish I had bought in then."

From an expat point of view, McGregor said, the major difference between 30 years ago and today is that foreigners used to be a novelty. The figures tell the story. In 1979, there were 5.7 million visitors to China, according to the China National Tourism Administration. Last year there were 124 million inbound travelers, ranking fourth in the world.

Chinese people used to be curious about the outside world, now they know all about it. Then they had time to talk, now they are busy making money, McGregor said.

"In the old days people had more time. You will understand what I mean if you go to a small village in the countryside. Where you get off the beaten track. There, it is still the same old China."

By Jules Quartly